How To Rejuvenate Facial Skin With The Right Ingredients?
What happens to the skin when it ages?
There are two reasons why we look younger:
Youthful face shape
- firm jaw
- firm neck
- plump upper face
- smooth contour of the temple area
- there are no dimples under the eyes
Young skin
- light and translucent skin
- reflects light
- small pores
- free of pigmentation and blemishes
- soft and lush
When it comes to face shape, there’s not much you can do about it. Changes will happen by themselves. Whether hormonal, genetic, or part of the normal aging process, the changes begin to be visible sometime in the mid-40s and later. Everything is starting to change very quickly, but also at the same time. During this period, you begin to see real changes in your skin.
Unlike face shapes, you can have an effect on the skin.
As we age, there is a change in the production of collagen in the skin. These changes occur at the cellular level. The cells we call fibroblasts produce collagen.
As the time goes by collagen is slowly disappearing and the skin is getting thinner. Thinner skin is one of the most important signs of aging. Collagen it acts as a “scaffold” that holds the skin and makes the skin thicker.
An important part of skin aging is the sun that we accumulate over a lifetime. People who live in sunny areas are "bathed" with more sunlight. The skin remembers all that exposure to the sun.
As we age, the skin begins to showvati consequences of lifelong sun exposure:
- pigment production
- collagen breakdown
- drying of the skin
As a result of aging, our skin goes through:
- collagen reduction
- dehydration
- increased pigmentation (dark spots)
- loss of moisture
- loss of strength
- fine lines and wrinkles
There are several ways we can affect facial skin aging. The daily routine should include high-quality sunscreen products (described below) and ingredients that will stimulate the production of collagen that we lose as we age, promote skin moisture and hydration, and reduce blemishes discount dark spots, clogged pores, acne and oily or oily skin.
Sun protection for facial rejuvenation
Sun exposure over a lifetime will have consequences as we age. It is important to protect the skin with a broad-spectrum protective factor.
Suntan lotion should be:
- broad spectrum (UVA and UVB rays)
- waterproof
- sweat resistant
- toned (can be used as a base)
- non-greasy
- non-comedogenic (does not clog pores)
- based on zinc and titanium oxide (mineral cream)
Sunscreen can protect you from the harmful sun ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) ray. In short, this means that sunscreen covers the entire UV spectrum and protects the surface of the skin, but also the deeper skin tissues from the UV rays of the sun.
Appropriately named, tinted sunscreen is a cream for sunbathing that comes in different shades to better match your natural skin tone. Tinted sunscreens combine broad-spectrum mineral UV filters, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, with added pigments - pigmented titanium dioxide and iron oxides - that create a visible skin color that can reflect light.
There are two types of sunscreen. Chemical and physical.
Chemical cream, as the word itself says, is made about synthetic ingredients such as oxybenzone and octinoxate (most commonly listed under “active ingredients”). It works by "drowning" in the skin and absorbing harmful UVA and UVB rays, converting them into heat.
Physical sunscreen (also called mineral cream) is quite gentle on the skin. It uses titanium oxide, zinc oxide or a combination of both and they block the sun's radiation by forming a barrier on top of the skin. UV rays are literally repelled and cannot penetrate, causevatand skin damage or cancer.
It's good if the cream is "non-comedogenic“. Non-comedogenic cream does not clog pores in the skin. Products with ingredients that cause comedones or clogged pores are called comedogens. A comedone or comedo is a plug of a hair follicle. Keratin (skin residue) combines with oil and blocks the follicle. Comedo can be an open pimple that looks dark by oxidation (blackheads) or a pimple closed by skin (white).
Some of the comedogenic ingredients are:
- Oils
- avocado oil, coconut oil, carrot oil, chia seed oil
- evening primrose oil, cottonseed oil, date oil
- flaxseed oil, lettuce oil, moringa oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil
- Alcohols and elders
- Hexadecyl Alcohol
- Oleyl Alcohol
- Socetyl Alcohol
- Isocetyl Stearate
- Propylene glycol monostearate
- Lanolins
- lanolin
- Lanolin oil
- Acetulated lanolin
- Acetylated lanolin alcohol
- PEG 16 lanolin (Solulan 16)
- Emollients and emulsifiers
- cocoa butter
- Coconut butter
- oleth-3 phosphate
- Laurenth-4
- Fatty acids
- lauric acid
- Wheat germ glycerides
- stearic acid
Researchers are continually discovering new pore-clogging ingredients. It is useful to study the ingredients of the product and become familiar with the meanings. Read below how he studiesvatand ingredients on cosmetic products.
Ingredients for facial skin rejuvenation
Retinol
- stimulates collagen
- increases the "traffic" of cells
- reduces pigmentation
Vitamin C
- stimulates collagen
- reduces pigmentation
- antioxidant
- counterbalance the sun effect
Hyaluronic acid
- belongs to the category of hydrators
- humectant (helps skin retain water)
Lipids
- belong to the category of hydrators
- manage the oily texture of the skin
- dry skin is less dry
- oily skin is less oily
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
- smooth skin surface
- skin health
- reduces pigmentation and acne
Peptides
- stimulate collagen
- reduce the loss of elastin (skin elasticity)
Growth factors
- cellular proteins
- skin regeneration
- wound healing
- currently there is no znanessentially proven products that are safe for use
Ingredients to reduce pigmentation
- vitamin C
- retinol
- toning and mineral creams
- supplementation with dietary supplements with the active ingredient Polypodium leucotomos (prevention of melasma)
- avoidsvatand hydroquinone (hydroquinone face whitening creams)
How to read the ingredients on the label?
When you look at the list of ingredients on a particular cosmetic product you will see a list that looks like this:
C15-19 Alkanes, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Tocotrienols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tocopherol
Example of ingredients
That list is called INCI.
INCI is an abbreviation for International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients).
This is a large list of standardized names for cosmetic ingredients published by the Personal Care Products Council (Personal Care Products Council). For example, the INCI name for argan oil is argania spinosa kernel oil, or the INCI name of table salt (yes, it is a common ingredient in cosmetic products) is sodium chloride.
Online dictionaries like INCIDecoder.com used and updated by thousands of users. On INCIDecoder you can go inside each ingredient and see its explanation.
Every cosmetic product should have a list of ingredients using the INCI nomenclature. If you notice that the product does not have INCI, do not use it.
The ingredients on the product are listed in descending order of weight / concentration (highest percentage to lowest).
The product contains the most of the first ingredient, the second most of the second, etc. up to weight of 1%. After the 1% mark, manufacturers can specify the ingredients they want. Manufacturers usually move ingredients that sound good up and ingredients that don’t sound that good down, but that’s okay and in line with the law.
How do I know the product is for my skin?
Suppose the list of ingredients looks good and reliable.
For easier filtering, ask yourself the following questions:
- Is there something in the product that I want to avoid?
- Does the product contain the ingredients I am looking for?
- Does the product have the potential to be effective for what I want to achieve?
- What are the marketing claims and active ingredients?
Do you have questions about skin rejuvenation? Write to us via the contact form.
Source: dr. Amir Karam
